My Autopano Pro forum

DukeNukeIt wrote:

Hello all,

Here are a couple of shots of my home-built pano head.  I used Delrin for both it's strength, and ease of use with wood working tools.  The base has an index plate that is set for 20 degree stops.  I can later replace the plate with a different index system for more or less shots when I upgrade my camera/lenses.  For now I'm using a Canon S3 IS camera, but I will be upgrading to a Canon Rebel Xsi 450D. 

So far Autopano Pro has really done a great job helping me stitch together my panos.  I need some more practice setting up shots, and shooting full HDR brackets for better tonemap results.

More to come

Dave

Hi Dave!

Welcome here! And: well done, your head. But one thing: the axis for vertical movement is not in the npp - at least as i can read from the pictures
But that´s easy to correct using a different camera-mount.

best and good luck, Klaus

Really interesting. I wonder what weight it has. Because using polymer is definitively a good idea for that !

Very nice job! 

A couple of suggestions:

1. It would be nice to have is the ability to allow the camera to take a nadir shot from a position that's not directly over the tripod.  If you rotate the middle piece 180 degrees on its long axis, the camera will be off to the side of the tripod, but still at the same height.  You may need two nadir shots from each side of the nadir point.  Also, you may need to shorten the lower horizontal arm.

2. A mounting plate is nice.  I am trying the hexagonal Bogen quick release, with the architectural plate.  The socket is surprisingly light, but it is deep (which may help if you do item 1 above.)  I use a Manfrotto 303SPH, and took off the arm closest to the camera to use the quick release (since my camera has a tripod socket in-line with the center of the sensor and lens, its ok to do this.)
Sorry, looks like you did use a mounting plate.

Last edited by hankkarl (2008-10-28 16:02:14)

Check this out http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/ … eview.html

As far as handling the tripod legs, you can use alpha channel to remove them, and they won't be part of the blended pano, or you can hope APP doesn't pick up CPs on them, (or go into the CP editor and remove them).  I am guessing that if you have three nadir shots (center, tripod left and tripod right), smartblend will use a 2 out of 3 algorithm and remove the legs.

Thanks guys,

The weight is almost 3lbs without the camera.  I had to go a bit thicker with the plastic for stability, but no Klaus it does not do much for dampening vibrations.  I have to set my camera on a 2 second timer because when I hit the shutter button there is a bit of movement   When I get the new camera, I'll get a remote shutter for it, and hope that the mirror flipping up wont make the camera shake to much.  If it's to bad, I'll have to make a thicker vertical plate to take out the vibrations.

Alas, it's not as easy as buying a complete pano-head, but for only $50.00 in material it's not to bad!

Dave

p.s.  The picture is of an old sanitation station along a scenic park near my house.

Last edited by DukeNukeIt (2008-10-29 23:16:28)

DukeNukeIt wrote:

Alas, it's not as easy as buying a complete pano-head, but for only $50.00 in material it's not to bad!

Dave

Just a little more work and you'll end up having recreated the Panosaursus pano head which costs less than $80.

http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm

Last edited by mediavets (2008-10-30 18:37:29)

DukeNukeIt wrote:

Plus the unit wont hold a Canon DSLR camera with an extended battery grip, which I will be using.  But it's a great buy! 

Thanks for all the feedback, I appreciate it, keep it coming!

Dave

Why do you want to use an extended battery grip when shooting panos?

The one time I remove the battery grip from my camera is when shooting panos on a panohead--the extra 2 inches means that much more deflection in the supports.